Belihuloya

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Sri Lanka’s Most Beautiful Hidden Drive

It was warm and humid when we reached Belihuloya and began our ascent to Nagarak. Little did we know that within a few hours we would reach almost 6,000ft and it would be freezing cold!

Belihuloya Waterfall

Sri Lanka is a beautiful island where one can experience warm as well as cool weather in just a matter of a couple of hours. This journey too was one such experience. The roads became steep and narrow as we drove along the curves of the hills. Bend after bend we turned holding on to the handles as we swerved, enjoying every moment. The landscape was a beautiful green with mountains and valleys spreading far and wide. Flowing little streams and the many waterfalls created the perfect setting. From a distance the shining lines of water could be seen, showing waterfalls of various heights. Some were near, and others far, but the view created was impressive. Up and up we went, the vegetation also changed with the climb. Large and tall trees soon became a common sight. Stepping out for a moment, the cool misty breeze surrounded us as we took in the beauty in front of us. Rolling green tea fields showed the richness of Sabaragamuwa’s soil. As we continued on, the views of a massive reservoir could be seen.

This was the Samanalawewa, which is fed by the Belihul Oya river. School children climbed the slopes covered with tea with great ease, smiling and waving as we passed by. As the roads narrowed further, we were almost at the edge; at times only one vehicle could travel on the road at a time. The number at each bend showed how many we had passed so far. Bird life was common and we were able to see a majestic serpent eagle, spotted dove and the little birds that hover around tea bushes to name just a few. Toque Macaques, looking furrier than their low country counterparts, jumped from tree to tree. Goats also stood out against the green background, their bleating heard loud and clear.

We reached Baker’s Bend, which is the largest bend on this route. We were at 5,000 feet and the view from this point was breathtaking, a 360-degree view of a beautiful landscape. Through the greenery, we could see workers carrying firewood down the hill. We moved further to reach a small roundabout, and we were in the Nagarak division. From there on, the cool and sunny weather became misty, wet and cold.

After passing more than 30 bends, we reached our destination in Nagarak. We were surrounded by natural beauty and were actually along the border of Sabaragamuwa and the Central Province. The wildlife sanctuary of Horton Plains was just a short walk away; however, entering the sanctuary from this side is not allowed. The bungalow faces beautiful views of the hills of Sabaragamuwa, while the forests of Horton Plains lie behind it. We had reached 6,000ft and the temperature was below 18 degrees.

Baker's Bend Sri lanka

A walk in the evening down the hill is definitely a relaxing experience as there is hardly anyone around, only the rolling tea estates, forest, mist and the splashing rain that makes you rush back for cover. Colourful flowers add bright colours to the green surroundings. As evening turned to night and the rain stopped outside, it was only us and the darkness of the hills. The temperature dropped further and we held on to our blankets while the fireplace in the bungalow came alive with warmth. It is said that animals such as sambar deer, wild boar as well as very rarely the elusive leopard come to this area at night; however, our attempts were not successful.

The next morning, as we began our descent, we stopped to explore a section of the estate where tea pickers were working almost together. They were accompanied by a couple of dogs who seemed used to visitors. The trimmed tea bushes were like a carpet and stretched for acres. A massive cliff rose on one side and we were told that this was in the direction of the Bogawantalawa area. We headed back onto the main path and continued our descent along the winding narrow road, and as we reached Belihuloya, we were once again enjoying the heat of the sun.

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